Patrick Steel: the Auckland couturier who dressed New Zealand's high society
If you've stumbled upon a beautifully tailored 80s dress with a slightly cheeky detail, like a bow in an unexpected place or a face appliquéd on the front, there's a decent chance you were looking at a Patrick Steel.
Patrick Steel is one of New Zealand's most established fashion designers. He's an Auckland couturier who spent decades dressing the country's socialites, celebrities and business elite. He's still working, and his pieces have been treasured andlasted well enough, that you can find them secondhand. Here's a proper look at who he is, what makes his work so recognisable, and what to look for if you're hunting for one.
Who is Patrick Steel?
Patrick Steel started designing clothes in the 1970s. In 1979, at just 24, he was named Young Designer of the Year at the Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards, which was a big deal at the time. Those awards were basically the Olympics of NZ fashion in that era, and Steel went on to take out the top award more times than any other designer.
That early success helped him find the financial and business backers he needed to open his own couture salon in Chancery Lane in central Auckland. By the late 80s he also had a boutique on Parnell Road, the destination for high fashion.
Why he mattered, and why he still does
Te Ara, the online encyclopedia of NZ, describes Steel as catering to moneyed Aucklanders in the 1980s. That's accurate, but it undersells it a little. To wear a Patrick Steel piece was, by many accounts, almost a rite of passage for well-heeled Auckland. He dressed the kind of people who needed a serious outfit for a wedding, the races or a big night out, and he did it with proper tailoring and embellishment rather than trends.
He's sometimes talked about as a kind of Kiwi answer to the big European couture names, which is a lot to live up to, but the level of construction in his work backs it up.
The Patrick Steel look
The NZ Fashion Museum holds several of his pieces, and they give a good picture of his style:
- Playful, but never sloppy. One of his 80s little black dresses is a 100% wool ponte knit with a slim silhouette, puffed princess sleeves and a small appliqué of a lady's face in profile, with a bob haircut and a red nose. The museum notes a surrealist influence, and it's genuinely fun without tipping into costume.
- Bows, lots of bows. A dark brown and navy dress features three gold button bows, and a red dress from the 80s came with a matching bow and hat. If you're seeing a theme, you're right.
- Hats. Steel's work often sits in the world of race day and occasion dressing, so hats and headpieces are part of the story.
- Shoulders and structure. Very mid-80s: padded, tailored, figure-skimming, but cut so you can actually move. That ponte dress has a centre back split for exactly that reason.
He also worked outside of eveningwear. Vintage sellers have listed Steel bomber-style jackets in cotton drill and leather from around the 1980s–2000s, so he wasn't only about the cocktail hour.
Where is he now?
Still designing, which is worth noting for anyone who assumes "80s designer" means "retired". In 2024 the NZ Herald reported that he had teamed up with fellow Auckland designer Adrienne Winkelmann, who has an atelier in Courthouse Lane. The plan was bridalwear at her atelier, with Steel also keen to explore designing for a cruise line. His take on the partnership was that they share the same DNA in tailoring and embellishing.
He's also worked as an interior specialist and mentor. A Your Home and Garden feature on a St Heliers home credited him as the mentor behind some of the homeowner's decisions. Fashion and interiors aren't as far apart as they sound.
How to spot a Patrick Steel piece secondhand
If you're shopping vintage or secondhand NZ designer clothing, a few practical pointers:
- Check the label. Pieces turn up under "Patrick Steel", "Patrick Steel Couture" "PS by Patrick Steel" and "Patrick Steel Fashion", depending on the era. Some sellers spell it "Steele", so search both.
- Date it by silhouette. Big shoulders, slim skirts and bold appliqué usually point to the 80s. Cleaner, simpler tailoring is more likely later.
- Look at the construction. Couture-influenced pieces tend to have proper linings, clean finishing inside and decent structure. Check seams, hems and any embellishment for wear.
- Mind the sizing. Vintage sizes run differently from today's, so go by measurements rather than the tag.
- Know the fibres. Wool ponte, wool crepe and good cottons age really well. Anything beaded or heavily embellished deserves a closer look at the thread and backing.
CHECK OUT OUR CURRENT COLLECTION OF PATRICK'S WORK HERE
FAQ
Who is Patrick Steel?
Patrick Steel is an Auckland-based New Zealand fashion designer and couturier, known for tailored occasion wear and for dressing NZ's elite from the 1980s onwards.
What is Patrick Steel known for?
Winning the Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards' Young Designer of the Year in 1979, then winning the top award more times than any other designer, and for playful but polished couture-style pieces.
Is Patrick Steel still designing?
Yes.
Where can I see Patrick Steel's work?
The New Zealand Fashion Museum holds several of his garments, and his work also appears in Auckland Libraries' heritage collections and in Ngā Taonga's archive.
Is Patrick Steel vintage worth buying?
If you like well-made, characterful NZ design with real history, yes. It's often better constructed than a lot of current fast fashion, and it's a piece of local fashion history you can actually wear.
